Sonder Bikes
96 miles from Milngavie to Fort William. What boots, socks and kit you actually need for the West Highland Way.
The West Highland Way runs 154km from Milngavie, just north of Glasgow, to Fort William at the foot of Ben Nevis. Typically walked over 7 to 8 days, it crosses a range of Scottish terrain: farm tracks, forest paths, open moorland, rocky lochside paths, and a final long approach through exposed highland landscape. It is Scotland's most popular long-distance route and one of the UK's great multi-day walks.
Getting the kit right matters more on a multi-day walk than on a day trip. You'll be wearing the same boots for 154km. There is no going home if something doesn't work.
Footwear: The Most Important Decision
On the West Highland Way, boots are not optional. The route crosses significant wet terrain, including the crossing of Rannoch Moor: boggy, exposed, and potentially brutal in any season. Waterproof boots are essential on this route.
This is also a long-distance walk, which means boots must be fully broken in before you start. Do not begin the West Highland Way in new boots. See: How to Break In Walking Boots
What to look for: a three-season boot with a waterproof membrane, reliable grip on wet rock and grass, and enough ankle support for days carrying a pack on rough ground. For a summer walk with accommodation, a lighter three-season boot is appropriate. For camping, or for spring and autumn conditions, you want something more robust.
Socks: carry three pairs of walking socks and rotate daily. Wash the previous day's pair and hang to dry on your pack. Merino wool dries overnight and manages odour well over a multi-day trip. Change into dry socks at the end of each day before putting your feet up.
Gaiters: for the Rannoch Moor section, low gaiters are recommended even in summer. They keep the lower leg dry and protect socks from boggy ground. For late autumn through spring, full-length gaiters are worth carrying for exposed sections.
Insoles: a multi-day walk is the strongest argument for custom fit insoles. Arch fatigue and heel slip accumulate over days in a way they don't on a single day out. See: Insoles for Walking Boots: Customising Your Fit
Pack
For a B&B or hostel route (the most common choice for first-timers): 25 to 35 litres is usually sufficient. You carry your clothing layers, day snacks, water, and overnight essentials, while accommodation handles food and a dry place to sleep.
For a camping route: 40 to 50 litres. Tent, sleeping bag, mat, stove, fuel, and food add significant weight and change the demands on your boots. A heavier pack requires a stiffer, more supportive boot.
Whatever pack you choose, dial in the fit before you leave. A poorly fitting pack causes shoulder and back fatigue that compounds over days. See: Choosing a Mountaineering Backpack for pack fitting principles that apply equally to multi-day walking.
Layering System
Scottish weather is variable on any day and unpredictable across a week. The WHW can be glorious or grim in any month. Pack for both.
- Base layer: lightweight merino or synthetic, moisture-wicking. Not cotton; cotton holds moisture and chills you quickly when you stop
- Mid layer: a fleece or light insulation jacket for evening use and cold exposed sections
- Waterproof jacket: taped seams, a hood that actually works in wind, packable enough to fit in your day pack
- Waterproof trousers: essential for Rannoch Moor and the higher exposed sections. From spring through autumn you will encounter rain; on the exposed moorland sections there is nowhere to shelter from it
- Gloves and hat: even in summer, summit-level and moorland wind can be cold
Typical daily temperatures: 10 to 18°C in summer, 2 to 10°C in spring and autumn. Exposed sections on Rannoch Moor and the Devil's Staircase can be several degrees colder and significantly windier.
Navigation
The West Highland Way is well-waymarked by the thistle symbol, but it remains a remote route and conditions can reduce visibility quickly. Basic navigation kit is essential.
- Map: OS Landranger sheets 56, 57, and 64 cover the full route. Harvey's dedicated West Highland Way map is a more convenient single-sheet alternative
- Phone with offline maps: the OS Maps app with the relevant maps downloaded offline, before you leave. Phone signal is patchy between Inverarnan and Kinlochleven
- Compass: know how to use it. The waymarks are good but not infallible, and mist on Rannoch Moor is disorientating
Emergency Essentials
Keep these items accessible and not buried in your pack:
- Emergency shelter: a bothy bag or foil bivy
- Whistle
- Basic first aid: blister treatment, paracetamol, a bandage
- Fully charged phone with mountain rescue number stored (999 in the UK, ask for police, then mountain rescue)
Route Stages
The standard breakdown of the route into daily stages:
| Stage | From to | Distance | Terrain |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Milngavie to Drymen | 19km | Easy: farmland and paths |
| 2 | Drymen to Rowardennan | 23km | Moderate: Loch Lomond east shore |
| 3 | Rowardennan to Inverarnan | 22km | Challenging: rocky lochside path |
| 4 | Inverarnan to Tyndrum | 19km | Moderate: Glen Falloch |
| 5 | Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy | 13km | Easy: open moorland |
| 6 | Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse | 20km | Challenging: Rannoch Moor crossing |
| 7 | Kingshouse to Kinlochleven | 14km | Strenuous: Devil's Staircase |
| 8 | Kinlochleven to Fort William | 24km | Strenuous: rough highland slopes |
Stage 3 (Rowardennan to Inverarnan) is technically the hardest underfoot. Stage 6 (Rannoch Moor) is the most exposed. Stage 8 is the longest and finishes with a long descent into Fort William on tired legs. Plan your accommodation around these demanding stages rather than aiming for equal daily distances.