Sonder Bikes
Approach shoes sit between trail runners and technical climbing shoes. Here's what they do well and when a walking boot is a better choice.
Approach shoes exist in the gap between walking boots and climbing shoes. Built to get you from the car to the crag efficiently, they're good enough on rough steep ground to hike in, and sticky enough on rock to scramble and move on easy climbing terrain without having to swap footwear.
If you do any rock climbing, bouldering, or scrambling, an approach shoe might be the most useful piece of footwear you can buy.
What Makes an Approach Shoe Different
Three characteristics define the category.
Sticky rubber outsole: approach shoe outsoles use softer, higher-friction rubber than walking boot outsoles. On smooth or featured rock, the grip is significantly better. The trade-off is that soft rubber wears faster on abrasive ground, so approach shoes have a shorter lifespan than walking boots if used primarily on gritstone or rough aggregate paths.
Rand: the rand is a rubber band that wraps around the toe of the shoe. It protects the upper from rock abrasion and allows the shoe to edge on small footholds, a technique borrowed from climbing shoes. The rand is what gives an approach shoe its ability to function on technical terrain where a walking boot would slide.
Firm midsole with controlled flex: stiff enough for load-bearing on the approach, with enough flex to walk comfortably over distance. Not as rigid as a walking boot, not as soft as a trail runner.
Who Needs an Approach Shoe?
Approach shoes suit people who move between walking and technical terrain in the same day, without wanting to carry two pairs of footwear.
The clearest use cases:
- Rock climbers walking into a crag who want better footwork on the approach than a hiking boot gives them
- Boulderers moving across rough or rocky ground between problems
- Scramblers on Grade 1 and 2 terrain where precise foot placement matters and a walking boot feels clumsy
- Via ferrata participants who need grip on cable rungs and rock steps
- Fastpackers moving quickly over technical mountain terrain
You can see that approach shoes find a place nearly everywhere other than for winter hillwalking and climbing.
Approach Shoes vs Hiking Boots: When to Choose Which
| Approach Shoes | Walking Boots | |
|---|---|---|
| On-trail walking | Good | Excellent |
| Rocky scrambling | Excellent | Adequate |
| Technical rock / slab | Excellent | Poor |
| Snow and ice | Poor | Good (B1/B2) |
| Load carrying over distance | Adequate | Better |
| Ankle support | Low to moderate | Moderate to high |
| Weight | Lighter | Heavier |
The approach shoe wins on technical rock and loses on everything involving snow, ice, or heavy loads over long distance. They complement rather than replace walking boots for people who do both.
Approach Shoes
Two approach shoes can cover different points on the spectrum from walking to climbing. One is built with a suede upper and Sympatex waterproof lining, suited to longer mountain approaches on mixed terrain where a degree of weather protection is useful. The other is designed for more technical rock approaches, with a closer fit and an outsole compound chosen for friction on rock rather than trail durability.
Care and Durability
Sticky rubber wears. It is the nature of the material. A few habits extend outsole life significantly.
Keep the outsole clean. Dust and grit embedded in the rubber kills friction and accelerates wear. Brush or rinse after use on gritty or dusty terrain. Store away from direct sunlight; UV degrades rubber compounds over time.
When the rubber becomes glazed and noticeably less grippy, it is time to either resole (possible with some brands and repairers) or replace. A glazed approach shoe sole on wet rock is a liability.