Careful Torque for Ramon

By Kenny Stocker

On Sunday Ramon Marin made the first ascent of Careful Torque (M11) at White Goods in Denbighshire. The ascent was made during the annual White Goods dry tooling meet and was bolted by Simon Frost. The line links Tumble (M9), across The Finnish Start (M10) with Ready Steady Hook (M9+/10) making it a monster roof-lip link up. Ramon describes it as ‘a hero line’. After warming up on Saturday with a retro-flash of Ready Steady Hook he worked the moves feeling good and describing the sequence as brilliant. The second attempt of the day was made by torchlight but he didn’t get too far across the roof.

On Sunday morning Ramon got psyched by listening to Rage Against the Machine, tied on took hold of his E-Climb Cryo2 axes and climbed upwards, bound for battle..

“I wasn't going to let go. The real meat of the route starts with the energy-sapping shallow torques across the first roof. If you rush it, your torques rip. Feet off, you have to lock-off and search for a secure torque, weight it, moving on carefully without displacing the precious torque. Once you cross the Finnish Start (M10) the torques end and you are on good holds, but you are goosed by then. One of my signature rests, the upside-down heel-hook came into effect and gave enough to get my breath back to tackle the second roof. Now, here the placements are bomber, so with a sense of resolution I tackled the next few moves with all I had and managed to get across to the final top out moves. The redpoint crux. Where you fall off because you've burned your barrels. So I hanged on, focusing on my breathing, let out some grunts and grimaces, and pull up to glory. Not bad for my first proper day tooling of the season.”

Ramon graded the route as ‘soft’ M11 feeling it was more difficult than Stump Man, the crags previous hardest route.

The video shows Ramon working the route on Saturday. You can read more about the ascent on his blog.